Well, let's see here...as you know from the Chili Beans recipe, all chilis began as stews of whatever vegetables and meat were laying around the hut. As Mexican culture met Anglo culture in Texas, the Mexican dishes were adapted to the Texan (and Northern Mexican) beef-eating culture and thus was born Texas Chili Con Carne. In fact there is still a home-made Tejano dish called "Carne Guisada" which is stewed beef with peppers, which is not hot and not Chili.

Real Chili is made only in Texas. Pretenders arise in places as disparate and laughable as California, and Ohio, but a teaspoon of their output is sufficient for a lifetime. I once had "chili" in Cincinatti, which prides itself on what it insists is chili, but which no more resembles chili than a duck resembles a duck-call. It was full of macaroni! And KIDNEY BEANS! Please, leave me out of this ordeal. Let me go home to Texas and die in peace, Please God, don't make me eat any more "Chile" or "Chilli" or "Chili" from Oklahoma or LA or Tuscon or Ontario. I just want a bowl of red, and be left to die. Or not.

And so, I give you the one and only True Texas Chili:

1 Chuck Roast ("Blade Cut" or "Top Blade," any top shoulder beef roast cut) cut into 1-inch chunks.

NOT RUMP! NOT ROUND! Chuck!

2 Yellow Onions, chopped

3 Cloves Garlic, chopped

6 Chili Anchos, torn and tossed in, or 6 tablespoons of real Texas Chili Powder.

Enough Cumin to Float a Battleship, until it tastes right.

(Start with a teaspoon and taste.)

Salt & Pepper

A Mess of cooked Pinto Beans

(No other beans will do, leave them out if you can't get pintos.)

Pinch Oregano

Cut the beef up and sautee it in fat (cut from the beef and rendered) until brown. Set aside.

Sautee the onions, add enough fat to absorb a handfull of flour, add same, and brown briefly.

Throw in beef, garlic, chili peppers, cumin, and enough water to cover. Simmer for two hours at the lowest possible temperature you can stand. Too low is not low enough. If it "smiles" at you as it simmers, it is right. If it boils, you can feed it to the dog. To be sure, put it in the oven at 200 degrees F.

Don't let it go dry, add liquid. Add liquid to yourself, too. After two hours, add the oregano, more cumin, the cooked beans, adjust the salt and pepper. Cook at least a half hour more. Thicken if necessary with cornmeal.

When it is done, serve it forth in bowls with salsa picante, raw white onions, cheddar cheese, and tortillas. Beer, not wine.