Footnote to Joe Gracey's Chili (Non) Carne:

Several people brought up the controversies over beans and tomatoes in Texas Chili. Dan Bentele wrote:

Now Joe, I thought the Texan line was like, no beans, ever. In fact, I thought the "no beans" rule was stronger than the "no tomatoes" edict. Please explain-I'm really curious.
And I don't understand the aversion to tomatoes at all. For me, they're just essential to the chili I love. But to each his (or her) own. And thanks for the recipe

Joe's response:

From: Joe Gracey
To: "passenger side"
Subject: Re: Goatman Gracey's Chili (no twang)

Aw, there's a big psuedo windbaggish "controversy" here in Texas about beans or no beans. Because of the chili cookoffs, at some point in the 60s there began this myth that real chili had no beans. There are more authentic and less authentic recipes, but as far as I'm concerned the real test of chili lies in the use of the correct peppers and spices. After that, the addition of beans is really a matter of personal taste. A case in point- Wolf Brand Chili, which was the touchstone of commercial Texas chili here before it was sold to a conglomerate and altered, always had two versions, with and without beans.

My own argument on this subject is that in all Tex-Mex cooking, pinto beans forms one of the foundation-stones of the cuisine along with corn masa and chili peppers. It is my contention that chili began as a bean and pepper stew, with meat added only in times of plenty or celebration. The fact that beef was added along the Rio Grande doesn't change this.

As to tomatoes, I rail against them because so many bad chili recipes rely on them for color and flavor to the exclusion of red dried chili peppers, which is simply not chili. how many recipes have you run across that call for a can of tomatoes and one teaspoon of chili powder? Most bad ones do. I am simply trying to get people to get back to the basic recipe so that they might rediscover the actual flavor of a chili. After that, if you still want tomatoes, add away. However, I do think tomatoes create a diversion, an alteration in the flavor that almost makes the dish something entirely different.

It is like this: if you want to taste the root item, make chili beans. If you want to taste the everyday homefolks item, add beef or pork. If you want to taste the "we just butchered a calf today and we have all this meat" item, make a meat-only chili. I daresay that only a person with plenty of money or plenty of beef on his hands would have made a beef-only chili, but that is a very pure approach resulting in what is essentially a modern dish. Once you start adding tomatoes and corn or hominy or squash or anything else, you are creating your own dish.

Joe
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Joe Gracey,
President-For-Life, Jackalope Records and Tapes
http://www.kimmierhodes.com